*Print vs. pattern. For clarity, especially for non-sewists who read my blog, I call the graphic on fabric a print. Patterns are the collection of tissue pieces used to cut out fabric pieces. With me?
I have been doing a lot of reading up online about sewing with laminated cotton. 2 VIPs (Very Important Pointers) were (1) don’t put unnecessary holes in the fabric and (2) don’t crease the fabric. You can’t iron out creases because the laminate will melt.
When cutting out my fabric I couldn’t use pins with the pattern pieces. (I can’t use them when I sew either.) Also, I couldn’t fold the fabric in half to cut out the pieces. Everything normally cut on the fold had to be cut flat so no creases were formed. And dual pieces were cut one at a time.
(My jacket will match my blue leather sofa!) See the 2 hood pieces cut out from opposite sides of the fabric? My fabric’s print didn’t run straight across but bowed up in the middle so I cut the hood pieces from each side. That helped ensure that the prints would line up properly.
For the hood I wanted the horizontal print to continue across the hood so I made an effort to cut the pieces as a continuous print. (See how the drops are laid out in a horizontal “stripe”?) Once sewn with seam allowance the print won’t match up perfectly but will at least follow the “stripe” of the fabric.
For the sleeves, I cut out one and flipped the piece over and used it as a pattern piece to cut the second one. I lined up the print so the sleeves were mirror-images.
See how they are mirror-images of each other? That’s because they will be on opposite sides so, hopefully, they will look somewhat symmetrical.
To make sure that I’m cutting on the straight grain, especially with a print, I measure the top of the grain line arrow on the pattern piece to the selvage edge. Here it is 10 inches. Then…
Then I measure from the bottom of the arrow to the selvage. Oh good, it’s 10 inches also. You can see that the arrow follows the print all the way down. (It’s to the right of the centre drop…see that?) But you can’t always trust the print (this one did bow up in the middle). Sometimes on fabric the print is stamped on and wonky. I like to do a quick measurement to be on the safe side.
Do you follow me? Any questions? Do you have any print matching tips or tricks?
What I’m listening to: Marilyn by Bat for Lashes